Sunday, July 8, 2012

Highway 139

Bernalillo, NM - July 6th

Highway 139
 I had to laugh at Mr. Hot Shot Navigator this morning. I mean this is the guy who spends countless hours poring over maps, studying his Rand McNally Atlas until its pages are so dog-eared he had to buy a new one, and who spends so much time in Google Maps that his Main Squeeze had to have a “serious talk” with him about his priorities and about ignoring a certain someone who lives with him. (Hint: Not Rio or me.)

 Off we went out of Rangely, Colorado with enough light to see but not enough light to see colors yet. This is his favorite time of day. The two lanes of blacktop were empty, but for a couple of rabbits out looking for breakfast (on the road?). ODB was in fine spirits this morning, singing away in his helmet, something about turning twenty-one in prison doing life without parole. What fun.

 About ten miles down the road we pulled over. Not so much singing now, a lot more cussing. Something was wrong with his GPS device. For some reason the GPS was telling him to make a U-turn. He turned it off, then back on. He tried pressing the reset button and resending the destination, but nothing worked. After a bit more swearing and head scratching, Mr. Hot Shot Navigator made a U-turn, went back ten miles and made the turn he’d missed to Hwy 139. He asked me not to tell, so don’t say anything if you see him.

 This was one splendid day of motoring. That 139 route was a doozy. It went along peacefully enough on the floor of a beautiful canyon. With little traffic to contend with, paradise was ours alone. Then we crossed a cattle guard and things changed, big time. A sign warned “OPEN RANGELAND. WATCH FOR CATTLE ON ROAD.” We did. They were. Who knew cattle could read road signs. Up we went, hairpin after hairpin, switching back as we worked our way up the side of the canyon to the 8000-ft pass. Coming down the other side was equally exhilarating. This proved to be the perfect warm-up for US 550, The Million Dollar Highway.

 We picked up the 550 in Montrose. Just a nice road for many miles as we headed south, but ODB had boned up on his 550 facts and knew the action started south of Ouray. We fueled up there. With a fresh tank of premium for me and a bottle of OJ for him, we were ready for the ride.

 He called Al the Fisherman before we got underway. You see, AtF planted the seed for this trip when he gave ODB a video tape of a TV show he’d recorded called “The World’s Most Dangerous Drives.” ODB watched the tape and became obsessed with someday riding the 550. That was over two years ago. After all that time, today was finally the day.

 About two blocks out of Ouray the road switches back in a hairpin. By the time you’ve gone half a mile, you’ve gained several hundred feet of elevation. And so it goes. Really tight turns with sharp grades made interesting by a sheer precipice on one side of the road and a wall of rock on the other. There were places where the fog line was missing as it had fallen into the abyss. And so it went until we crossed the pass at 11,111 feet. Same thing on the way down. Guard rails? What guard rails. Who needs guard rails? With zero tolerance for error, and dire consequences unless you packed a parachute, the adrenalin was flowing for him, the octane was flowing for me.

 On this perfectly beautiful summer Colorado morning, ODB finally got his dream ride. Me? I must say, I kicked ass. With 120 inches of combustion, 120 horses of power, 130 lb-ft of torque, seven gears of Baker transmission, and mechanical upgrades too numerous to mention, my performance today was simply awesome, if I do say so myself. This is what I was made for. Him too.

 As we motored across New Mexico’s interior, his happy disposition persisted. He’s hitting his stride now. Not so much wiggling around in the seat. More relaxed riding.

 Once again, ODB was singing . . .

 And I turned twenty-one in prison doing life without parole.

No one could steer me right but Mama tried, Mama tried.

Mama tried to raise me better, but her pleading, I denied.

That leaves only me to blame ‘cause Mama tried.

Major Motorcycle Pilgrimage Across America, you’re on.

(Google Map Update)

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